Restaurant Sant Pau 

Approaching Sant Pau recently, one visitor sees a formally attired woman outside an imposing door. When eye contact is made, she smiles and waves. That moment would come to define the dining experience--full of surprises, elegant and warm. Inside, chef Carme Ruscalleda has faithfully recreated her famed coastal restaurant near Barcelona, down to the artwork. Mustard walls, red accents, heavy wooden antiques and natural light make for a warm, relaxed feel. The service is polished, yet utterly natural and at ease. The menu, which changes seasonally, is illustrated on small cards. One is immediately struck by the dominance of vegetables and fish—ironic given that Carme grew up in a family that ran a charcuterie. She embraces the Japanese love for shun, or seasonal ingredients, summoning up subtle yet complex flavors. As she has said, “my cuisine is modern and emotional—it’s about new sensations.”

AIMÉE VIBERT 

Passing by, you might mistake Aimee Vibert for one of Kojimachi’s many old embassies. Like the architecture, chef Toshinori Wakatsuki approach to French cuisine is traditional. He set out to create a restaurant that served classical haute cuisine, provided spaciousness and greenery, and executed perfect service. There are even salon type opera nights… On first glance, there is something a little precious about this conceit. Yet, a chat with the deeply knowledgeable and approachable sommelier, Yasutaka Sugimoto, puts this visitor at ease. And as for chef Wakatsuki’s philosophy, he says, “When I first experienced cuisine in France I felt something nostalgic. I wanted to replicate that flavor and that feeling.” There is something heartwarming in that admission—where although all is in flux some traditions are worth keeping…

Maison de YU LONG

Though trained in Shanghai, Chef Junichi Abe creates non-region specific Chinese cuisine, which is deceptively simple. Restrained in the use of spice, Abe’s flair is in his use of excellent in-season ingredients and his pure broths—in his case 100% chicken stock. His dishes are aromatic and textural. His shark fin, which is stewed in a broth of meat, shrimp extract and ginger broth until all liquid is as concentrated as pudding, is fragrant, dark and rich. The Japanese leaks and moyashi sprouts provide a lovely contrast to the creamy star ingredient. And one diner is happy to find the fried bun for lapping up the remaining sauce. Abe is also renowned for his stir-fry skills. “It’s all about temperature, excellent oil, and water. For perfect texture, I stir fry to heat through about 70%. When the dish reaches you it’s the ideal temperature, not even a second overcooked. “

La Rochelle

As befitting “The King of Iron Chefs,” Hiroyuki Sakai dishes up a lot of show at his OTT restaurant, “La Rochelle,” featuring seasonal French with Japanese influences. With “Monsieur” Sakai’s desire that ultimately his clients have good fun, the ambiance is—despite Hermes plates and the chef’s handpicked antiques—quite unpretentious and lively. As Sakai says, “It’s 80% about my cuisine and 20% entertainment.” Sakai’s French has always been influenced by the cuisines of Japan and China, and as such seasonal vegetables and fish are prominent on his menus. There’s also impeccable service and the chance to meet “Monsieur” himself. Though Sakai is constantly on the move for work and pleasure when he’s at home in Tokyo, he dons his whites and heads straight to the kitchen. Not surprising, for a man who hand writes replies to his 1000-plus New Year’s greeting cards.

The Iron Chef’s latest venture is La Rochelle Sanno, not far from Akasaka Mitsuke and Roppongi. The ambiance here is contemporary, but the Provencal menu still centers on seasonal ingredients provided directly from local purveyors throughout Japan.